Hajastan

Armenia, October 2019

Four days on a bus isn’t enough to truly get to know any country. But with a bit of attentiveness and openness, it’s enough to notice deeper truths – such as respect for tradition and family, devotion to God, pride in a difficult past, and a love for nature, which we, people of the West, often sacrifice in pursuit of a “better life.”

In the shadow of Mount Ararat, history, legend, and faith intertwine — all still deeply rooted in the hearts of Noah’s descendants. I didn’t expect to encounter so many contrasts — spiritual, historical, and social — in such a short time. 

My journey began in the capital, Yerevan — a city founded nearly 2,800 years ago.
Yet it’s not the ancient buildings but rather the modern cityscape that dominates the view. Highlights include the Cafesjian Cascade complex dedicated to contemporary art, Republic Square, and the Mother Armenia monument.
You can feel the fading breath of communism here, and the traces it left behind are still visible in architecture, fashion, and in the mindset of people for whom material status must be displayed — whether in a G-Wagen or a Lada Niva...

Coming from the Eastern Bloc myself, this felt more like a return to childhood than a surprise — more nostalgic than shocking.

Though Armenia is small, it has so much to offer - breathtaking landscapes, a genuinely traditional countryside, and of course — ever-present monasteries.
We boarded the bus sluggishly and covered short distances on bumpy roads. Time seemed to move more slowly here — as if it mattered more than space.

Along the way, we stopped at sacred sites like Tatev, Sevanavank, Noravank, Geghardavank, and the famous Khor Virap — where Christianity began for Armenia. Here, the reverence for religion and pride in Armenia’s role in Church history can be felt at every turn. Each place has its own powerful story — and its own vendors.

Roland — an ethnographer, historian, guide, and above all, a passionate patriot — says Armenia is where everything began. I’m convinced that thanks to people like him, and other prominent Armenians like Charles Aznavour, Gerard Cafesjian, or Cher, the identity of this beautiful country will endure for centuries…to the rhythm of jazz, which Armenians love so dearly.

This is Armenia - as I see it.